These exhibition catalogues, from some of the world’s finest museums, celebrate superlative fashion. Some, like In America and The Rose in Fashion, offer a thematic approach to a range of styles and time periods; others, like Guo Pei and Alexander McQueen, illuminate the lives of the designers and the fashion they brought to life.
by Jill D’Alessandro
Contributions by Anna Grasskamp, Sally Yu Leung and Juanjuan Wu
Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy is a journey into the imaginative world of Guo Pei, China’s first couturier and one of the world’s most innovative fashion designers. Guo Pei has astonished fashion audiences from Beijing to Paris for over 20 years and made headlines in the U.S. as the designer of Rihanna’s trailing yellow gown at the 2015 Met Gala. Known for dazzling designs which make the implausible possible, Guo Pei takes inspiration from sources as varied as China’s imperial heritage, European architecture, and the botanical world; she has been sought for commissions by celebrities, royalty, and the Olympics. With more than 200 color illustrations highlighting 60 of her exquisite creations, this sumptuous volume showcases the garments’ consummate craftsmanship, lavish embroidery, and unconventional dressmaking techniques, all of which are hallmarks of Guo Pei’s work. In addition to its visual splendor, the book features a Q&A with the designer, a facsimile sketchbook, and a chronology tracing her career from its start at the Beijing Industrial School of Design to celebrated couturier.
Published in association with the Fine Arts Museums of San Francsico
In America: A Lexicon of Fashion
by Andrew Bolton, Amanda Garfinkel, Jessica Regan and Stephanie Kramer
This new presentation of American fashion features a revised vocabulary that emphasizes its expressive qualities. Stunning new photography showcases over 100 garments from the 1940s to the present that offer a timely new perspective on the diverse and multifaceted nature of American fashion. The catalogue features works that display qualities such as belonging, comfort, desire, exuberance, fellowship, joy, nostalgia, optimism, reverence, spontaneity, strength, and sweetness by designers, from the pioneers who established the nation’s style to the up-and-coming creatives shaping its future.
Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press
by Laura L. Camerlengo and Dilys E. Blum
Contributions by Sequoia Barnes, Darnell-Jamal Lisby, Eric Darnell Pritchard, André Leon Talley and madison moore
Patrick Kelly (1954–1990) was known for his bold, bright, and joyful fashion creations that resonated in the streets and nightclubs and on the runways of New York, Paris, and beyond. The first American and the first Black designer to be admitted to the governing body of the French fashion industry, Kelly boasted celebrity couture clients including Madonna, Cicely Tyson, and Gloria Steinem. His designs are distinguished by a combination of playful aesthetics and a willingness to brazenly foreground race and heritage and push cultural boundaries, including racial tropes like golliwogs, or Black baby dolls.
Generously illustrated with hundreds of images of runway photography, garments on mannequins, and never-before-published archival materials, this book is an unprecedented exploration of Kelly’s influential career, which was tragically cut short by complications from AIDS. More than 80 of Kelly’s most beloved works are featured alongside thoughtful essays focusing on his work in relationship to French fashion, Queer identity, Black identity, and his exuberant runway shows. Also featured is a detailed timeline decorated with archival photographs and drawings, making this volume the definitive resource on Kelly’s life and work.
Published in association with the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
by Andrew Bolton
Contributions by Tim Blanks and Susannah Frankel
Photographer Sølve Sundsbø
“An authoritative and moving insight into the legacy of the British designer.”—Carola Long, Financial Times
“McQueen’s brilliance is celebrated in this sumptuous tome.”—Harper’s Bazaar
“Excellent.”—Huffington Post
Arguably the most influential, imaginative, and provocative designer of his generation, Alexander McQueen both challenged and expanded fashion conventions to express ideas about race, class, sexuality, religion, and the environment. Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty examines the full breadth of the designer’s career, from the start of his fledgling label to the triumphs of his own world-renowned London house. It features his most iconic and radical designs, revealing how McQueen adapted and combined the fundamentals of Savile Row tailoring, the specialized techniques of haute couture, and technological innovation to achieve his distinctive aesthetic. It also focuses on the highly sophisticated narrative structures underpinning his collections and extravagant runway presentations, with their echoes of avant-garde installation and performance art.
Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press
The Rose in Fashion: Ravishing
by Amy de la Haye
The Rose in Fashion: Ravishing is a fascinating exploration of how the rose has inspired the way we look, dress, feel, and fantasize. It foregrounds innovative, refined, and challenging fashion design from elite 18th-century woven silks to the latest gender-neutral catwalk trends and Alexander McQueen rose dresses. Drawing upon fashion clothing, everyday dress, millinery, fine jewelry, perfume, and artificial and fresh roses, multiple expert contributors make reference to love, beauty, sex, sin, gendered identities, rites of passage, transgression, degradation, and death. This sumptuously illustrated book also includes a contribution and stunning images of roses by visionary photographer Nick Knight. Wild yet cultivated, savage yet delicate, this flower has remained an enduring symbol perhaps due to its versatility and the dichotomies it represents.
Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York
About Time: Fashion and Duration
by Andrew Bolton, Jan Giler Reeder, Jessica Regan and Amanda Garfinkel
Introduction by Theodore Martin
Contributions by Michael Cunningham
Photographer Nicholas Alan Cope
About Time: Fashion and Duration traces the evolution of fashion, from 1870 to the present, through a linear timeline of iconic garments, each paired with an alternate design that jumps forward or backward in time. These unexpected pairings, which relate to one another through shape, motif, material, pattern, technique, or decoration, create a disruptive fashion chronology that conflates notions of past, present, and future.
Virginia Woolf serves as “ghost narrator,” and excerpts from her novels reflect on the passage of time with each subsequent pairing. A new short story by Michael Cunningham, winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction for The Hours, recounts a day in the life of a woman over a time span of 150 years through her changing fashions. Scholar Theodore Martin analyzes theoretical responses to the nature of time, underscoring that time is not simply a sequence of historical events. Fashion photographer Nicholas Alan Cope captures 120 fashions with sublime black-and-white photography. This stunning book reveals fashion’s paradoxical connection to linear notions of time.
Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press
